Sell-side

Licensing Will Split the Aesthetics Market, and Buyers Are Already Choosing Sides

Byron Stone3 August 20267 min read

The rules have not arrived yet. The pricing behaviour has, and clinics that would pass scrutiny today are being paid for like scarce assets.

00KEY HIGHLIGHTS

  • The Health and Care Act 2022 gave government the power to license non-surgical cosmetic procedures in England, and the August 2025 consultation response confirmed the intention to proceed on a red, amber and green risk model.
  • The highest-risk procedures are set to move under CQC regulated activities rather than council licensing, which is a different and heavier regime than most clinic owners are expecting.
  • No scheme is in force today, so nobody can be non-compliant yet, which is precisely why the next eighteen months are the cheap time to get ready.
  • Buyers are not waiting for the rules. They are already pricing clinics on whether they would pass scrutiny now, and paying a premium where the answer is obviously yes.
  • A clinic that would struggle to meet the standard faces a narrowing buyer pool rather than a lower price, and that is the more expensive of the two outcomes.

Aesthetics has grown for a decade with remarkably little regulation, and that is ending. The Health and Care Act 2022 gave government the power to introduce a licensing scheme for non-surgical cosmetic procedures in England, and the consultation response published in August 2025 confirmed the intention to proceed, using a three-tier model that sorts procedures by clinical risk into red, amber and green. The highest-risk procedures, including liquid Brazilian butt lifts, are set to move under CQC regulated activities rather than local authority licensing, which is a materially heavier regime. A further consultation on the detail is expected during 2026.

Here is the part that matters commercially, and the reason this is worth your attention now rather than when the rules land. No scheme is in force today, so nothing you are doing is non-compliant. Buyers have not waited for that to change. They are already sorting clinics into the ones that would pass scrutiny if it arrived tomorrow and the ones that would not, and they are paying a premium for the first group because the supply of them is short.

No scheme is in force today, so nothing you are doing is non-compliant. Buyers have not waited for that to change.

01The Anticipation

Why Buyers Are Pricing a Rule That Does Not Exist Yet

Buyers price certainty, and the direction of travel in aesthetics is no longer in doubt. A buyer looking at a clinic today is not asking whether regulation will arrive. They are asking what the clinic will look like on the other side of it, because they will still own it then.

That question resolves into a fairly short list. Is there medical oversight, and is it real rather than nominal. Are the practitioners qualified, insured and trained to a standard that would survive being asked. Are consent processes documented, are records complete, and is the complaints file clean and well handled. For clinics offering the treatments most likely to fall into the higher risk tiers, is there any registration or governance already in place, or would the clinic be starting from nothing.

Where the answers are good, a buyer sees an asset that keeps trading through a change that removes some of its competitors. Where the answers are weak, they see cost, delay and the possibility that part of the treatment menu becomes unavailable to them. Both of those are priced, and they are priced today, which is why two clinics with almost identical turnover can receive offers that differ by several multiples of profit.

Losing the buyers most able to pay properly costs more than accepting a discount from the ones who remain.

02The Buyer Pool

The Narrowing Buyer Pool Is Worse Than the Discount

Owners tend to assume that a compliance gap means a lower price. It usually means something more expensive than that, which is fewer buyers willing to look at all.

Investor-backed platforms and clinic groups are the most active acquirers in this market, and they are also the ones with boards, lenders and their own regulatory exposure to think about. A group that is building a national business cannot afford to buy a clinic that becomes a problem when the rules commence, so their internal screening quietly excludes anything that would not clear the bar. That happens before anyone speaks to you, and you never learn it happened. You simply notice that the process feels quiet and one offer arrives instead of four.

Competition is what moves price in any sale, so losing the buyers most able to pay properly costs more than accepting a discount from the ones who remain. The clinics that will do best over the next two years are not necessarily the largest or the most profitable. They are the ones that are obviously, evidently clean, because those are the ones every type of buyer can pursue.

Buyers are sorting clinics by what would survive scrutiny, before any scheme is in force.

03The Decision

Whether to Sell Into the Change or Prepare Through It

There is a genuine strategic decision here, and the honest answer depends on where your clinic sits today rather than on any general view about timing.

If your clinic would pass scrutiny now, with medical oversight in place, records that stand up and revenue that does not depend entirely on one person, there is a real argument for selling into this window. Credible buyers are competing for a limited number of clinics that clearly clear the bar, and scarcity is doing some of the work that you would otherwise have to do yourself. That scarcity will not last, because the whole point of a licensing scheme is that it eventually makes the clean position normal rather than exceptional.

If your clinic would not pass scrutiny today, selling now means selling at the exact moment the market is discounting for that. The time is better spent preparing, and the preparation is not especially exotic: medical oversight, insurance and training records assembled, consent and record keeping brought to a standard a stranger could audit, and a clear view of which of your treatments are likely to fall into which risk tier. Twelve to eighteen months of that work changes both the price and the number of people willing to bid for it.

04The Work

What to Do in the Meantime

Start by writing down your treatment menu and marking each item against the risk tiers as they are currently proposed. That single exercise tells you more about your exposure than any amount of general worrying, and it is the first thing a serious buyer will ask you to do anyway.

Then work on the evidence rather than the intention. Buyers and regulators both want to see records rather than assurances, so the practical target is a file that shows qualifications, insurance, training, protocols, consent, and how complaints were handled, all with dates on. Most clinics have the substance of this already and have never assembled it in one place.

Keep an eye on the timetable rather than the noise. The detail is still being consulted on and there is a great deal of commentary in the trade press that runs ahead of what has actually been decided. We track the consultation stages and the buyers moving on them, and our view is that the owners who act during the uncertainty rather than after it will capture most of the value that this change creates.

If you want a sense of where your clinic sits before you decide anything, the valuation tool gives you a grounded range in a few minutes, and the exit readiness test covers the governance questions a buyer will raise.

Regulation rarely changes what a good business is worth. It changes who is allowed to compete, and how obvious the difference is between the businesses that were always run properly and the ones that were not. The clinics that benefit will be the ones that were ready before they had to be.

If you own a clinic and you are weighing up whether to sell into this or prepare through it, that is a conversation worth having early. We are always glad to have it.

Kevin Stone, Partner at Stone & Co

Byron Stone

Partner, Stone & Co. Kevin works with the owners of care homes across the UK on sales, valuations and exit preparation.

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